Darn that Denim

Hello again, Reader.

It’s been a while. I’ve missed you.

Things are settling into a rhythm here, and so I am back at the keyboard, where I belong.

A few days ago, I was sitting in this very spot, working away, and as I crossed my legs, I heard a monstrous shredding sound. The fabric of my black jeans had torn: a gaping maw grinned at me from my upper thigh. My heart sank: a perfectly good pair of pants, ruined.

The horror!

The horror!

This often happens to older and well-worn pants when your thighs meet. The fabric rubs together, and wears down over time, so that eventually a hole develops, or as in my case, blows right through your pants in one fell swoop.

I was frustrated: I didn’t have the budget to buy a brand new pair of pants, and besides, I like these jeans. They are comfy, classic, and easy to dress up or down. I wear them a lot (which explains the hole). I did go out looking for a new pair, half-heartedly, but everything I saw paled in comparison to my wonderful black jeans. I admitted defeat, and put them in the back of my closet, mourning their untimely passing.

But a few nights ago, I came across instructions for darning, and after a little digging, discovered that it is possible to darn denim! I was so excited! Maybe my beloved black jeans weren’t for the bin just yet.

What I found, Reader, is that there seems to be two main ways to repair rips and tears in denim (and other cloth too). The first way is to get a backing fabric, like a stiff but lightweight cotton organdy, and use it as a little bridge between the two sides of the hole. Then you stitch over the fabric to join the two sides, with the backing fabric giving the stitches an anchor. Finally, you trim off the excess backing fabric, and voilá: your jeans are back to working order! This method works best if you have a sewing machine, because you can use the super-strong zig-zag stitch very easily, and the whole process takes little to no time, start-to-finish. You can find a full video of this process here.

I do not have a sewing machine at the moment. So as excellent as this first method is, I am fixing my jeans the old-fashioned way: by hand. This second type of darning is more traditional, and is often associated with mending knitted garments like socks, but it can be used for a number of different purposes. To start, you trim off the excess threads around the tear, so that the edges are clean. Then you sew anchor lines parallel with the tear, starting just above and finishing just below the actual hole. Finally, you weave a threaded needle in and out of your anchor lines (weavers will recognise the anchor lines as warp threads, and the ‘fill’ as weft threads). What you are essentially doing is weaving and sewing at the same time. With every stitch, you are re-building your fabric. As such, it’s often best to use thread in a similar weight and fabric to your original garment. In my case, I have an easy time of things: my jeans are mostly cotton, and so a dense cotton thread, like a darning or embroidery thread, do the trick. I’m also lucky that my jeans are black, because colour matching is a breeze. If you are working on blue-jeans, or a patterned fabric, things can get a little more tricky. You have a couple of choices. Either pick a colour from your pattern, or match a thread as closely as possible to your fabric, to disguise where your hole was, or go for broke and get a contrasting colour to show off your darning skills and brighten up your garment.

Two steps to darning by hand.

Two steps to darning by hand.

I was thrilled to find out all of this stuff, for a couple of reasons. Firstly, I like the clothes in my closet. Some of them I have had for a very long time, and it would be a shame to toss them on account of a tiny tear. Furthermore, needles and thread are typically a lot less expensive than a brand new pair of jeans, so repairing damaged garments takes the pressure off my pocket-book. Finally, making do and mending means that fewer of my clothes end up in a land-fill, and that can only be a good thing.

Reduce, re-use, recycle...and now, repair!

Reduce, re-use, recycle…and now, repair!

I mean, even Mary Poppins darns the odd sock. If it’s good enough for Mary, it’s good enough for me.

Mary Poppins means business.

Mary Poppins means business.

I’ll be sure to post pictures of my progress with my very first darning project, but for now, I’d love to hear from you! What have you mended/darned/fixed/repaired/up-cycled, and how did it go? Any handy hints you’d like to share? Let me know, Reader!

Until next time.

Yours,

Cotton Jenny

Money/Laundering

Hello Reader.

It’s nearly laundry day at my house. Good old laundry day.

Despite the rhyme’s insistence that “Monday’s the washing, Tuesday’s the ironing, everybody’s happy, well I should say”, my laundry day is neither on Mondays, nor do I take great pleasure in it. It’s expensive, repetitive, awkward work, and sometimes has disastrous results (hello, red sock in the what-was-once-white-load).

But I didn’t come here just to complain. I came to bring tidings of great joy. There are ways to making laundry less painful. Get ready, Reader. It’s going to be a bumpy ride.

Firstly, you should know that most of these ideas come from two people. The first is a lady called Linda Przybyszewski, who wrote an excellent historical account/manifesto/call-to-arms/lament called The Lost Art of Dress. In it, she details the rise and fall of home economics in America, with lots of lovely pictures, sassy commentary, and helpful hints about how women of the past dealt with keeping squeaky clean. The second lady is my mother. I’m convinced that she knows everything. By the end of this, you likely will be convinced, too.

Now, Reader, some of these ideas might strike you as a little strange. Stay with me. There is method to the madness, but you have to stick it out.

1. Don’t wash your clothes. Okay, so you’re probably thinking to yourself, “She’s already jumped the shark”, but hear me out. We have a tendency,at the end of a long day, to throw everything we are wearing into the laundry hamper and call it a night. As tempting as this is, you may be doing more harm than help. Instead, washing only those clothes that are truly dirty (i.e. socks/pantyhose, underwear, undershirts and possibly bras), and hanging your pants, dress, shirt, skirt, sweater and other outer garments up does two wonderful things. The first is that it lessens the amount of laundry you do each week. It also keeps your outer wear in better shape. Washing even the sturdiest fabrics too much can cause the fibres to break down, which will result in faded, thin, worn fabrics. This process is only accelerated with more delicate materials.

2. Hang everything the minute it comes off your bod. I am terribly guilty of breaking this rule, but if you hang your clothes instead of letting gravity do the work, you won’t have to wash or iron as frequently, because your clothes won’t be wrinkled and dusty from time on the floor. There are also ways to up the ante when you hang your clothes. Textile sprays and refreshers are easy to use, but can be pricey, and sometime the scents and perfumes bother sensitive noses. Another option is to hang clothes outside. Lovely ladies of yesteryear hung their clothes in “airing cupboards”, which were fancy wardrobes, full of vents and little sachets of lavender, which would freshen up clothes and give them a pleasant floral aroma. Most of us do not have airing cupboards, but similar effects can be achieved by hanging clothes outside in pleasant weather, where the sun can work its magic on whites, or in doors in a storm. (My personal favourite spot is the bathroom, but if you have a laundry room, that works too.) Little sachets of herbs like lavender are still a great way to keep fabrics smelling fresh, whether you use them in a linen closet, or for just-worn clothes. An easy-to-come-by alternative is the dryer sheet: tuck it between bedsheets, towels, drawers, or attach to clothes hangers for laundry fresh-scent without the laundry. Weirdly, placing clothes in the freezer is an effective way to eliminate odours without washing: this method is excellent for that dry-clean-only blouse or jacket that still smells like the cedar chest from whence it came, or that cute but musty second-hand skirt.

A lavender sachet

A lavender sachet

3. Steam is your friend. Hanging up clothes in the bathroom during or after a shower can help reduce stubborn wrinkles if you don’t have time for the full iron. Also, if you happen to have a straight iron, you can heat that baby up and use it to tame wrinkly shirt collars in a pinch, but be sure not to set it too high, especially if you are dealing with any synthetic fabrics. Too much heat will get rid of your wrinkles, but also melt your shirt. Not ideal.

4. Don’t put everything in the dryer. Dryers can be fast and effective at getting rid of moisture in fabric, (that’s their job), but they also have some negative side effects.They are notoriously unfriendly to the environment, producing all kinds of nasty green-house gases (older models are especially guilty of this.) One of the worst things about them, old or new, is their impact on certain types of fibres. Wool, silk, and many synthetics don’t play nicely with dryers. They shrink, warp, and in some cases, melt. Towels and bedsheets get along great in a dryer, but generally speaking, you can get away with hanging basically everything else. Hanging things to dry means never having to worry about shrinking your favourite sweater, or new pair of jeans. It means extending the life of your delicates and undergarments. It means clothes that smell like sunshine, without breaking the bank. And don’t we all need more (metaphorical) sunshine in our lives?

So pretty!

So pretty!

5.Speaking of delicates… Wash. Them. By. Hand. Now, when I say delicates, what I mean is bras and hosiery, but also sometimes workout gear and specialised garments. Basically, if it goes next to your skin, or your delicate bits, it is itself a delicate, and needs special attention, a nap schedule, and to be sung to sleep. (I’m kidding. Only sing to your underpants if you want.) Washing your lacy panties, bras, and pantyhose in the bathroom sink with a gentle detergent (baby soap is a great option) works beautifully. It prevents the elastic from heating and cooling too quickly. It also keeps your unmentionables from stretching. Best of all, it can keep your underwires, should you have them, where they belong: snug as a bug in the fabric of your bra, and NOT stabbing you in the rib-cage during that really important meeting. Wash and rinse them gently, and then lay them flat to dry on a towel draped flat over a clothes horse, or on any flat surface. Flat is key. Did I mention flat? Also, bras require a wash every two-to-three wears, so you don’t have to handwash constantly. Happy day!

Waiting for its next victim.

Waiting for its next victim.

6. Dealing with sweat. Look, guys. We all sweat. It’s a thing. We have to be okay with it. Unfortunately, our clothes do not. Human sweat is acidic, and that means that when it hangs out on your clothes, it denatures fibres, which is a fancy way of saying it sort of eats them. It also stains them. This is a problem. Human beings are going to sweat, and we’re not likely to stop wearing clothes any time soon, so we’ve got to figure out ways to combat sweat damage to our garments. Many deodorant and antiperspirant products promise to prevent sweat stains, but they are not always as effective as they claim, and many folks don’t much care for coating their pores with aluminium daily, so that’s often not the best option. Here is one instance where looking to the past can help us out in the future. Smarty-pants from days of old, before antiperspirant existed, made little crescent-moon-shaped pads out of cotton and batten (stuffing), which they then sewed into the underarms of their shirts and blouses. The little pads soaked up all manner of sweat, leaving clothes stain-free. At night, as they hung up their sweat-free clothes in their airing cupboards, these same geniuses simply took out the stitches holding the little pads in place, whereupon they could wash and dry them to be ready for another use. People had several pairs of these little pad bad boys, so they could wear a fresh pair daily. “But I don’t know how to sew, and some of my clothes don’t have sleeves!” I hear you cry, disheartened. Never fear, Reader. An alternative to the pad solution is to rinse the garments that you’ve sweated on throughout the day (most likely to be shirts and undershirts) and let them dry. This will wash away the worst of the sweat before it has time to hang out and get all acidic up in your clothes. If you’re looking for extra power, I’ve had good luck adding dish-drying liquid (the kind you put in a dish washer to help your dishes dry shiny and completely.) I’ve only tested it on white shirts, so be careful using it on coloured clothes.

7. Out, out, damned spot. Actually, generally speaking, rinsing out stains as soon as possible is usually a pretty good idea. Most natural fabrics (silk is sometimes excluded here) can get wet as long as you let them air dry. If you get barbeque, blueberries, or blood on your otherwise pristine white shirt, get thee straight to a can of soda water. Pour the water on the reverse side of the stain, and blot. Never, never never (never!) scrub. Unless you want the stain to get bigger, and more deeply entrenched in the fibres. Then, by all means, scrub away. Vinegar and baking soda can work well to lift stains out of fabrics, but be sure to rinse out the vinegar: it is acidic, and any residue can stain your clothes itself.

Bubbles at work to save the day!

Bubbles at work to save the day!

8. A Wrinkle in Time. Let’s say you’ve washed your clothes and hung them to dry, or are pulling your towels-and-sheets only load from the dryer. To keep your clothes from getting really wrinkled, fold them as soon as possible. You can usually get away with not ironing a lot of stuff if you fold it carefully the first time, and then zip it straight into its waiting drawer. I’m looking at you, socks, tee shirts, shorts, dish towels, and cotton undies.

9. Oh, sheet. Bed sheets are a pain. I’m still trying to figure out how to properly fold a fitted bed sheet, but here’s a handy tip. To keep all the pillow cases and sheets together, fold up everything except one pillow case, the way you normally would. Then slip that pretty pile of linens inside the pillow case. Voilá. You have a tidy, docile little pouch of bed-sheet goodness, ready to lie obediently in your linen closet, instead of getting all mixed up and bunched into a wad at the back of the shelf.

10. Seasons in the sun. If you happen to live in a climate which demands a wardrobe for each season, washing your clothes before you put them away can help to combat that musty smell when you take them out again, as can a judiciously placed dryer sheet or lavender sachet. It also keeps acidic stains from damaging your clothes over long periods of time. To get rid of the smell of mothballs (yuck!) or cedar, should you desire it, a quick trip to the outdoor clothes line or the freezer should do the trick.

I hope you found these ideas helpful, Reader. If you’re keen for more info on the laundry ladies or Dress Doctors of old, check out The Lost Art of Dress, and prepare to get inspired.

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Do you have any tips you have found helpful in the battle against endless laundry? Leave a comment below! I’d love to hear from you!

Yours,

Cotton Jenny